Gordon & MacPhail is still decades away from bottling its last Scotch whisky, but Talisker is one of the first distilleries to see its stocks run dry.
The independent bottler announced in 2023 that it would stop filling casks from other distilleries, instead redirecting funds to its own distilleries: The Cairn and Benromach. But its warehouse is still full of aged stock, with the company recently revealing it had at least one cask from every vintage from 1948 to 2003.
However, its dimming light has been brought into focus with the release of the final Talisker in its inventory, from 1987. At 39 years old and bottled under the brand’s new Connoisseurs Choice Heritage range at a cask strength of 51.4% ABV, it’s a stylish send-off for the Skye distillery.
Talisker has been largely absent from Gordon & MacPhail’s modern portfolio, with the independent bottlers best known for aging and bottling Speyside and Highland whiskies such as Glenlivet and Glen Grant. In fact, it’s been over 30 years since a Talisker was last bottled under the Connoisseurs Choice range, when this whisky was in its infancy.
That’s largely down to proximity rather than preference. Gordon & MacPhail has historically bottled whiskies from distilleries around its Elgin base, and Talisker is a long way away for a sherry butt to travel. There are always buy-backs as well, and it’s possible – though completely speculative – that Diageo has bought some stock to bottle under its own brand.
Gordon & MacPhail appears to have given the Skye distillery a proper send-off with this premium presentation. The Connoisseurs Choice Heritage range launched quietly this year with a 56-year-old Longmorn single cask valued at £7,000 ($9,300). Its retro design honors the range’s look in the 1970s, and is in line with a growing desire from buyers for stripped-back packaging.
Whisky journalist Serge Valentin said: “It is rather splendid to see the old black CC [Connoisseur’s Choice] labels again, the ones in use during the 1970s, before the ‘brown banner labels’ which themselves preceded the ‘old map labels’.
“It is true that this series once sheltered many wonderful Taliskers, especially those from the 1950s. I also find that there is something exceedingly chic about releasing malts at 39 years of age, rather than waiting a few more months to display ’40’.”
This Talisker isn’t in the same league as the Longmorn in terms of price. It is available for £1,250 (US$1,670), and is limited to 451 bottles. That places it above a recent bottling from Diageo, the Talisker Rare Series 1992, which was bottled at 60.1% ABV, limited to 331 bottles, and priced at $1,300.
That Talisker sold out upon release, but there were fewer bottles, and it is an official distillery label, which, according to Scotch whisky’s unwritten rules, allows for a premium. Gordon & MacPhail will argue this comes from one of Scotch whisky’s great maturers, and is nonetheless notably older – more than enough to justify the price.
Age is, of course, just a number, and we haven’t tried this Talisker, so can’t comment on its quality. Official channels say it offers notes of raisins, cloves, leather, tangerines, walnuts, cocoa, black pepper and hints of ash. That hints at something full-bodied in terms of maturity, suitable for an experienced palate that is used to drinking that side of the flavor wheel.
Interested parties can register to buy a bottle of Talisker 1987 here.
