Del Maguey, Pechuga Mezcal
Del Maguey, founded in 1995 by artist Ron Cooper, pioneered single-village mezcal from Oaxaca. Pechuga takes the double-distilled Minero from Santa Catarina Minas and runs a third distillation with wild mountain apples, plums, plantains, pineapple, almonds, and rice, plus a skinned chicken breast suspended in the still. Yes, you read that correctly.
Nose
Sweet agave, farmyard funk, stewed fruit
Palate
Earthiness, black pepper, watermelon
Finish
Oily texture, smoke, lemon oil
This clear, oily spirit has a lovely watermelon note, backed by green Jolly Ranchers and some light smoke (wood-fire embers). Very inviting indeed. The spirit side is present, but very much as an engine for the fruity, estery notes — in a good way. Rich and oily, with a dusty overtone and smoke that comes through like charred toast and griddled pineapple. The higher ABV is present and does burn slightly, but I don't mind that personally. The watermelon hits again at the death, becoming even juicier, with tropical notes of passion fruit and mango. The smoke lingers long, in a lovely way.
I love the nose on this mezcal — funky vegetals, farmyard stink, sweet agave notes, and bags of earthy agave too. The palate is bright and silky, with great smoke integration that starts to build along the finish. There's a touch of chili heat right at the end, and that green earthiness continues to the very end of the palate. A mezcal that shows much more than just smoke.
Initial notes of overripe rhubarb and stewed fruit, some farmyard and wet hay, and a distinct smokiness all come through first on the nose, with a direct malty note of sourdough and rye bread. Then it's into chamois leather and a softer fruitiness, with a gentle hit of white pepper heat. The palate is initially sweet, in a very pleasant way, then remarkably peppery, with black pepper and a fiery cayenne spice. It's bright, fresh, and alive, but fatty and viscous too, with lemon oil. The finish is oily and rich, the pepper spice relaxing as a warming spice develops. A very well-balanced mezcal with a direct, upfront approach.
