Del Maguey, Tobala Mezcal

This water-clear mezcal has good melon notes on the nose, with an excellent, bright, herbal expression of earthy tones. First-class fermentation, giving great juicy notes here. Sugar snap peas and tomato leaf also appear. The palate is undermined by a general overpowering sweetness, but hidden beneath it are more of those lovely melon notes, plus cucumber and agave, along with waxy lemon and cocktail cherry. This all leads to a sweet, fruity finish of canned fruit salad and some fresh herbs.

I really love the nose on this mezcal — it is super floral (white flowers, mainly) and green too, with lots of vegetal character coming through: celery, jalapeño, dill pickle, and peppery watercress. There's some stone fruit lurking in there as well — think charred peaches and nectarines — and some smoke starts punching through on the palate, medicinal smoke mainly. The finish is perhaps not as long as I'd like, and that smoke lingers there too. Overall, though, a mezcal that shows character and nuance.

Bright, vibrant farmyard smoke, fresh lime juice, a blast of grapefruit zest, and a touch of emulsion paint: that unusual mix of something fermented — soft fruit, with a malolactic funk and acidity. Then there's a clean, mineral-like flintiness and a subtle maltiness. On the palate it's immediately peppery and hot, with a touch of red apple skin sweetness, some cinnamon and clove warmth, and a return of the malty, rye-bread note from the nose. The finish delivers a touch of dark caramel bitterness and a coppery, blood-like note on the death. Quite complex for a youthful mezcal, and all the better for it.