On September 24th, 1968, spirit made using own-malted barley on The Glendronach’s coal-fired stills was syphoned into refill Oloroso sherry butts.
They lay in its dunnage warehouse for 46 years until 2014, when the aged spirit was moved into three rare Spanish oak Pedro Ximenez hogsheads.
A decade later, this 56-year-old whisky – the oldest in GlenDronach’s history – has been released by the distillery to mark its 200th anniversary.
A reintroduction to the distillery sets this landmark release in context. Opened in 1826 in the valley of Forgue in the Highlands of Scotland by James Allardice and a cohort of local farmers, The GlenDronach (which translates to ‘Valley of the Brambles’ in Gaelic) was one of the first legally licensed distilleries to open in Scotland in light of the Excise Act of 1823.
It’s had a successful, albeit tumultuous, two centuries since, surviving fires, a silent spell and various changes in ownership, all while cementing itself as one of the quintessential Highland malts, celebrated for its synergy with sherry casks.
Described by master blender Dr Rachel Barrie as being “stoic and robust,” its spirit is crafted by Scottish Larchwood, saxophone-shaped stills and those all-important dunnage warehouses.
And now, alongside a rejuvenation of its distillery and surrounding grounds to mark 200 years since its founding, The GlenDronach has released only 200 bottles of its new 56-year-old release. Barrie poured the whisky at a press tasting in August.
The Verdict
I’ve tried a few 50-plus-year-old whiskies, and the chance to taste something half a century old is always an honor. It offers an unbridled sensory insight into the people, place, and past of a distillery. Exceptionally old whiskies, however, do come with caveats: they can be far too extracted or disappointingly flabby on the palate; overly dusty or overcome by wood; dull and diminishing, or devoid of distillery character.
Luckily, this particular 56-year-old has not fallen at the feet of any of these culprits. On the nose, those dark fruits and vinous top notes of GlenDronach are unmistakably vivid with juicy cherries, ripe plums, thorny bramble bushes, and the heady greenness of blackcurrant leaf and berry stems. As the whisky opens up, earthier notes of wet mud and petrichor begin to express themselves, and rich scents of chocolate-covered raspberries, coffee beans and toasted sesame seeds start to unravel.
The palate is unbelievably vivid for a whisky of this age. It’s kaleidoscopic in its fruity character and deeply concentrated without being overextracted. Those brambles are jammier – with a Black Jack-esque quality – and those green notes add a savory edge, too. Earthiness is never far away, and a welcome vegetal character adds even more interest as the finish extends long after the final sip.
What is most impressive, however, is its all-important texture: zippy and mouth-watering, it has grip and bite, none of that looseness I’m more accustomed to in old whiskies. It has weight and backbone which anchor those richer flavors while also remaining impressively bright for something that has spent over half a century in barrel.
The £35,000 ($48,000) price tag might sound steep, but compared to its contemporaries, it sits quite comfortably for a single malt of this age and quality. Each of the 200 bottles also come in a hand-carved cabinet made by world-renowned woodcrafter John Galvin. With 148 individual elements and taking over 80 hours of painstaking handiwork to make, these American Black Walnut casings hold Glencairn decanters filled with the 56-year-old as well as bespoke brass metalwork and hand-engraved details.
As we keep going back to nose our empty glasses, the distinct character of The GlenDronach continues to dance on the nose. It is a confident, albeit limited, outing by this Highland doyenne and one which warrants the same reverence as any Scotch whisky over the 50-year mark.
The GlenDronach Aged 56 Years is available to purchase at Selfridges and can be requested through The Whisky Shop, Hedonism or Berry Bro & Rudd.
