Armagnac has a soul like no other spirit. It has remained rustic and unpretentious for centuries, whilst still giving off a warming glow of true craftsmanship and quality.
What remains remarkable is that despite possessing arguably the broadest range of vintages and age statements of any spirit, the pricing hasn’t skyrocketed in comparison to, say, single malt whisky or single estate rums. As a result, there’s a treasure trove of bottlings out there to suit any budget, occasion or celebration.
Here are seven of the best armagnacs to try right now.
Domaine d’Aurensan NV Carre des Fantomes Ténarèze
ABV
46%
Price
£75 / $100
A true gem for those seeking a taste of the past. This bottling by family-owned Aurensan, a five-hectare estate in the Ténarèze region, practices a policy of ‘Three Zeros’, namely no added coloring, no sweetener or no water, meaning all armagnacs are bottled at natural cask strength.
This release celebrates six long-lost grape varieties from the region, including Plant de Graisse, once prized for its waxy characteristics, and Clairette de Gascogne, both of which were moved aside in favor of the current Baco, Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc, and Colombard.
You’ll find plenty of ripe orchard fruit, especially apricots and peaches, plus fragrant, sweet jasmine flowers, honeysuckle, and nutmeg. A time capsule of flavor.
Darroze Les Grands Assemblages 60 Year Old
ABV
42%
Price
£721 / $1,000
Every now and again you come across something truly remarkable in the spirits world. Armagnac guru, Marc Darroze (the brother of legendary Michelin-starred chef, Hélène Darroze) is highly regarded not for being a distiller, but for his blending.
Darroze is famed for creating highly complex Assemblages – blends of different aged armagnacs from across the three production regions – the pinnacle being this extraordinary 60-year-old blend.
Dense, majestic and highly complex, with an abundance of dark chocolate, Arabica coffee, baking spices, fruit cake, toasted almonds and a distinct rancio, forest floor-like earthiness, this is something fans of highly aged Oloroso sherry will appreciate.
Arguably the pinnacle of blending in any spirit and an absolute steal at £721.
Castarède 1984
ABV
40%
Price
£95 / $128
A visit to the Castarède domain, Château de Maniban in the small town of Mauléon d’Armagnac, is always a life-affirming experience – and not just because of the spirit itself. Here, you’ll find Florence Castarède, matriarch, sixth-generation distiller and an Armagnac icon in the truest sense of the word.
Castarède has the honour of presiding over the oldest Armagnac trading house in France and locked away in the musty cellars is an incredible array of vintage bottlings, including the consistently brilliant 1984: delicate on the first approach, with soft vanilla, sweet citrus, fresh plums and then tannic and muscular, with darker, richer caramels, praline chocolate and warming cinnamon notes. A landmark year.
Château de Lacquy 12 Year Old Hors d’Âge
ABV
43%
Price
£82 / $105
Chateau de Lacquy is in the most enviable of positions, in that this prestigious house is often described as the Rolls-Royce of Armagnac amongst a handful of eminent writers, critics, and enthusiasts.
It’s easy to see why. It’s the oldest family-owned domain (founded in 1711) and is now presided over by 10th-generation owner, Gilles de Boisséson. It can trace its roots back to the Pontac family, the original owners of the first-growth Bordeaux superstar, Chateau Haut-Brion.
Ironically, Lacquy’s strength lies in its refined elegance: a gentle, delicate floral and fruity spirit, with essence of perfumed orchard fruit, aromatic, plump vanilla pods, and rich tarte-tatin notes. A wonderous armagnac with a prestigious pedigree.
Laballe Folle Blanche Blanche D’Armagnac Eau De Vie
ABV
43%
Price
£42 / $46
Something of a curve ball here: blanche armagnac is a relatively unknown category, but one which is helping to lead the way in a more versatile on-trade focus for the spirit.
Its beauty lies in its unaged status, drawing closely on the characteristics of the grape varietals – in the case of Laballe’s version, the elegant, floral Folle Blanche.
Expect full-bodied notes of fresh fruit, particularly ripe pear, greengages, floral dark-skinned plums, and ripe green grapes. It makes a delicious twist on a Martini and is equally at home sipped over ice. Clearly, the renaissance starts here.
Delord 1975 Bas Armagnac
ABV
40%
Price
£111 / $148
I must confess something of a self-interest in this choice, given that 1975 is my year of birth. It also takes me nearly full circle back to my first visit to the sleepy Gascon village of Lannepax, in 2013 where the Delord distillery is located.
I’ll never forget sheepishly asking current generation owner, Jérôme Delord if he had anything from 1975 (thinking it was ancient) and being pleasantly surprised when it quickly became apparent that the Delord stocks ran comfortably back to the early 1930s.
This vintage is a masterpiece: muscular and nutty, the glass overflows with liquorice, burnt sugar, dried dates and darker coffee notes. Truly wisdom in a nosing glass.
Château de Laubade XO Bas Armagnac
ABV
40%
Price
£82 / $138
In deepest winter, when one is most likely to crack open the cognac, instead think a little more laterally and consider seeking out a bottle of XO Armagnac instead… you’ll thank me for it later.
Despite not possessing an age statement or vintage, the emphasis is on exceptional blending of different aged eaux-de-vie, bringing a finely balanced richness and complexity.
This is about as festive as it gets: fragrant orange peel, sticky dried fruits, subtle nuttiness, a marzipan-led sweetness and a waft of delicate smokiness too. A Dickensian delight.
