Laphroaig, 15 Year Old

The nose opens with surprising softness. You wouldn't know this was a Laphroaig if you nosed it blind. There's a lot of bitter fruit up front: lemon zest and grapefruit. Underneath it, you get into the signature notes: brine, charred meat, and freshly scorched earth. That sweetness doesn't follow through to the palate, which is dominated by Laphroaig's coastal influence: sea spray and oyster shells, backed up with a luscious oily texture. You do have to commend the distillery for sticking with 46%, as non-chill-filtered chewiness feels essential to the experience. There's a medium finish, with the bitter lemons finally making an appearance alongside some forest mulch and classic Laphroaigian vaporized rubber.